A land where desert meets snow clad mountains, where bustling souks meet bright blue sea and where intricate tilework meets palm tree oases.
Having visited Morocco once before, I already knew what a vibrant, diverse and incredibly beautiful country Morocco is, but I had no idea what it would be like to visit with a toddler in tow. I can now say that it is a very child-friendly place to visit, and I might even go as far as to say that it’s been the trip where our daughter has been met with the most kindness, respect and generosity from absolutely everyone we met.
Below is my 7-day travel guide with a toddler for the perfect introduction to what Morocco has to offer, starting and ending in Marrakech.
How to get around in Morocco
Driving - we chose to hire a car, and despite the warnings we read online prior to our trip, driving in Morocco was absolutely fine. Not gonna lie, Marrakech is a bit stressful, mainly because of all the mopeds cutting in and out, but as soon as we got out of the city, the roads were much quieter (you will need to get the car washed before returning it as the car gets really dirty!). Some of the car rentals are really cheap, however I read a lot of reviews prior to our trip saying there were lots of unexpected hidden costs, so I would recommend going with a reputable car hire company (we opted for dollar, owned by Hertz, and they were great!).
Tours - there are plenty of tour companies that organise tours to all the main sights in Morocco - when I first went to Morocco 10 years ago this is how I got around and it wasn't actually that expensive, so this is a great alternative if you want to get out of Marrakech but don't feel confident driving.
Private driver - if you prefer to go by yourself, rather than a tour, then hiring a driver is a good option. You can usually get a reasonable deal, so it might not cost you as much as you may think. This also gives you more flexibility in terms of where to go and stop, and you'll need to do less research as your driver will be familiar with the roads.
Public transport - for a lot of places, you can get around just fine by public transport. Trains connect the bigger cities like Fez, Marrakech and Casablanca, and local bus companies run services all over Morocco. If you are going by public transport, be prepared for delays, and buses can get crammed. Make sure to plan out your route ahead and be flexible!
Where to stay in Morocco
Marrakech - no visit to Marrakech is complete without staying in a Riad! A Riad is a traditional Moroccan house with an interior courtyard. They are often characterised by their inward focus, designed to provide privacy and tranquility. Riads typically feature a central fountain or pool in the courtyard, surrounded by rooms with intricate tilework, stucco carvings, and often a rooftop terrace.
For our first few days in Marrakech, we stayed in Riad Saba and I honestly can't recommend this place enough! The Riad is beautifully decorated, the room was spacious and breakfast delicious - but what made it so unforgettable was the staff who went above and beyond to make our stay amazing!
For our final night, we stayed in Riad Samsli. This was another great stay and we were sad we couldn't stay longer here! This place also has a hammam (traditional bath facilities) and spa treatments available, so if you want some time to unwind, it's the perfect place.
Agafay - if you are thinking of doing a stay in the desert then Agafay Pearl Camp has everything you need for a relaxing stay! Spacious tents, swimming pool, dinner with a show, option for camel ride or quad bike (at a cost) and then finish the evening with a fire right outside your tent under a million stars.
Taghazout - this is a lovely little town if you are visiting the coast, a bit quieter and more laid-back than places like Agadir. We stayed in the spacious apartment Over Sea Taghazout El Baraka, which is right next to the beach with incredible sea views - perfect for catching the sunset (or sunrise if you're an early bird!).
Weather in Morocco
We went to Morocco early to mid February, and although it's technically still winter in Morocco, the days got very hot. The mornings and evenings did get a bit chilly though, and up in the mountains there was still some snow, so if you are going in the winter months I would make sure to bring some extra layers.
If you are planning to go in the summer months, be prepared for some extreme heat, with temperatures often soaring to well above 40°C. This is something to bear in mind, especially if you are planning to travel with young children.
7-day itinerary in Morocco with a toddler at a glance
Day 1: Marrakech - Ben Youssef Madrasa, Le Jardin Secret & the souks
Day 2: Marrakech - Bahia Palace, Saadian Tombs & Le Jardin Majorelle
Day 3: Higher Atlas Mountains - Ourika Valley & Oukaïmeden
Day 4: Agafay Desert - desert camp & camel ride
Day 5: Taghazout - seafood & ocean swim
Day 6: Paradise Valley & Imi Quaddar
Day 7: Tamraght Beach & back to Marrakech
Day 1: Marrakech - Ben Youssef Madrasa, Le Jardin Secret & the souks
We started the day by visiting Ben Youssef Madrasa, once an Islamic college and known for its intricate tilework, stucco carvings, and woodwork. This gave us a great introduction to Moroccan architecture and was a lovely place to spend an hour or so in the morning.
Entry was 50 MAD per adult, with young children going free of charge. You don’t need to book tickets in advance, but it does get crowded so I would recommend going early in the day to avoid the crowds (though not too early as you still want to catch the sun reflecting on the walls!). We arrived around 10 and it was starting to get busier already, but by the time we left around 11, the queue was already all the way out onto the street.
We then headed straight to Le Jardin Secret (the Secret Garden), an ornate 19th-century palace complex with traditional Islamic gardens. This was only a 7 minute walk from Ben Youssef Madrasa and it was a peaceful spot where our daughter could run around for a bit. The courtyard garden is nicely decorated with palm trees, cacti and citrus trees and there was also a little pond with turtles that our daughter enjoyed watching. There are a couple of cafes on site if you want to have a drink or a bite - one in the courtyard and one up on a terrace overlooking the garden, but there are also plenty of benches scattered around if you just want to sit down and take in the tranquility.
Entry to the garden was 100 MAD/adult with children under 12 going for free, and I would spend max an hour here as it is quite small.
We then went for lunch at Le trou au mur - a restaurant with a modern take on traditional Moroccan dishes. The food here was really delicious and fragrant, and we enjoyed soaking up some sun on the tranquil rooftop.
After lunch we made the most of our daughter’s nap time and explored the souks. Souks are open-air markets, bazaars, or commercial quarters, typically found in North Africa and the Middle East. There are several different souks in Marrakech, like Souk Semmarine, and it’s a great place to experience the vibrant culture and atmosphere of Marrakech, as well as finding gifts and souvenirs.
As much as you should definitely experience the souks, I will say that they are quite hectic and not the best place to take young kids. You can walk through with the pram just fine, but I wouldn’t let our daughter walk there by herself, mainly because of the many mopeds zigzagging through the narrow streets. If you are planning on going here while your kid naps in the pram like we did, then ear defenders are a a must! She slept right through all the hustle and bustle.
We then headed to Jemaa el-Fnaa, a vibrant and bustling square in the heart of Marrakech where you will find markets, food stalls and a variety of performers. I would avoid eating here as it is a massive tourist trap - instead head to one of the restaurants nearby, there are some good ones not far from the square.
When our daughter woke up we headed to the Koutoubia Gardens, located right behind Koutoubia Mosque and just a few minutes walk from Jemaa el-Fnaa. As it is just a normal park, it is free to enter and it was a great spot for our daughter to run a bit more freely (she especially enjoyed playing by the water fountain!). You also get some great views of the beautiful Koutoubia mosque!
In the evening we had a delicious meal at Le Salama restaurant, right next to Jemaa el-Fnaa, before heading back to our Riad.
Where to stay: Riad Saba
Where to eat: Le trou au mur, Le Salama
Daily cost breakdown (for 2 adults & 1 child)
Accommodation: 830 MAD
Ben Youssef Madrasa: 100 MAD
Jardin Secret: 200 MAD
Lunch: 320 MAD
Dinner: 360 MAD
Total: 1810 MAD / £143
Day 2: Marrakech - Bahia Palace, Saadian Tombs & Le Jardin Majorelle
Today, we started by visiting Bahia Palace, a vast and intricately designed palace with 160 rooms, courtyards, and 8 acres of gardens. Only parts of the palace are open to the public, but there is still plenty to see here so it’s definitely worth a visit. Explore the ornate tilework, the beautiful courtyard gardens and the different collections of rugs and paintings at the palace. I particularly liked the decorative ceilings in the different rooms.
The price to enter was 100 MAD/adult (free for children) and we decided to leave the pram at the entrance as the visit loops back to where you start, but you could quite easily bring the pram throughout if you preferred. Our daughter enjoyed running around in the gardens and playing hide-and-seek in the small, empty rooms in the courtyard.
We then headed to the Saadian Tombs in the Kasbah district, only a short walk from Bahia Palace. These royal tombs, built in the 16th century by the Saadi dynasty, are considered to be one of the most beautiful and important historical sites in the city. They’re located in a small complex surrounded by gardens and the complex includes a main mausoleum, a smaller mausoleum, and a mosque. The mausoleums are decorated with intricate tilework, marble, and stucco.
Tickets for this place were also 100 MAD/adult and it was a lot quieter than other attractions we had been to, so our toddler could be a bit freer. You have to queue up to see the main mausoleum as you can only view the mausoleum one group at a time, but the queue moved relatively quickly.
We then headed to restaurant Dar Naji for lunch and it is almost worth going here for the interiors alone! The restaurant has two floors and a roof terrace, which are all beautifully decorated. The food was also really tasty and reasonably priced.
In the afternoon, we had booked to go to Le Jardin Majorelle (the Majorelle Garden). We got a taxi from Jemaa el-Fnaa as it is a bit of a walk from the city centre. This is the only attraction we went to that needed to be pre-booked (though we booked tickets online the same day) and it was also the priciest attraction at 170 MAD/adult. That said, it was also one of our highlights from Marrakech, so I would definitely recommend a visit!
Le Jardin Majorelle is a botanical oasis known for its vibrant colours, exotic plants, and unique architecture. The garden was designed in the 1920s by French painter Jacques Majorelle, and was later bought by fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his husband Pierre Bergé in 1980 who later restored it. The garden extends over 9,000 m² and onsite there is also the Yves Saint Laurent museum and the Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts (entry to these need to be bought separately) so there is plenty to explore, I would allow a couple of hours here.
In the evening we had booked to go to Naranj, a trendy restaurant right in the medina serving delicious Lebanese food. I would highly recommend this place (especially if you want to have something that's a bit different to couscous and tagine). We did try to go here the day before but they were fully booked, so you might have to book a day or so in advance!
Daily cost breakdown (for 2 adults & 1 child)
Accommodation: 830 MAD
Bahia Palace: 200 MAD
Saadian Tombs: 200 MAD
Lunch: 220 MAD
Snacks & drinks: 84 MAD
Taxis: 140 MAD
Jardin Majorelle: 360 MAD
Dinner: 360 MAD
Total: 2034 MAD / £162
Day 3: Higher Atlas Mountains - Ourika Valley & Oukaïmeden
Today was a full day of exploring the Higher Atlas Mountains so we went to the airport in the morning to pick up our rental car, then headed for the mountains!
We started by going to Sti Fatma in the Ourika Valley, a verdant valley renowned for its lush landscapes, traditional Berber villages clinging to hillsides, and the cascading Ourika River. The drive here took 1h30 and as it was already lunchtime by the time we got here, we started off by grabbing something to eat. The river banks are full of restaurants, where you sit on rugs and cushions literally right next to the water, so this was a lovely way to start the day before heading to the Ourika Waterfalls.
The hike to the waterfalls is only about 20-30 minutes, and we had our daughter in the back carrier for this bit. The hike is mostly flat, so it wasn’t too strenuous (through you do climb some rocks, so I would say a back carrier is needed unless your kids are old enough to do the hike by themselves). The waterfalls were pretty and we even saw some monkeys on the way! There were trails continuing up if you wanted a higher vantage point of the falls, but we noticed our daughter was struggling to stay awake at this point, so we hurried back to the car instead.
We continued up into the mountains towards Oukaïmeden, a ski resort about an hour’s drive from Sti Fatma (back the same road we came for 30 minutes then up into the mountains). This drive was incredibly scenic, winding past massive snow clad mountains. When we got to Oukaïmeden, there were some people renting out skis and sleds. Since our daughter had never been sledding before (this shames my Swedish heart!) we decided to rent one for her and somehow, me and my husband ended up with skis on our feet. There wasn’t a huge amount of snow so I wouldn’t necessarily call it skiing (though my husband claims it counts as it was his first time), but our daughter had a lot of fun playing in the snow. Obviously, being this high up does mean a drop in temperature so make sure to bring some layers!
We then drove another 10 minutes to a lookout point with panoramic views of the Higher Atlas Mountains and this was probably the most gorgeous view of the entire holiday! If you come this way, make sure not to miss this (I have pinned it on the map further up in this post).
We then started making our way back to Marrakech via road P2028 - this was another gorgeous drive, but with completely different landscape so I would highly recommend this route back (Google Maps will tell you to go back the way you came as it is slightly faster, but if you add Tahnaout as a stop, it should take you this way).
We got back to Marrakech quite late and went for food as soon as we’d parked up the car. Even for confident drivers my advice would be to look up a car park outside of the medina. Inside the medina, there are only certain places you can drive, and those streets are a bit crazy. We found a parking place near the Jemaa el-Fnaa square which was really handy (and after we had parked up they invited us to sit down and share some food and tea with them which was really special!).
Daily cost breakdown (for 2 adults & 1 child)
Accommodation: 830 MAD
Taxi: 200 MAD
Daily car hire: 246 MAD
Lunch: 190 MAD
Ski/sled hire: 350 MAD
Overnight parking: 70 MAD
Dinner: 210 MAD
Total: 2096 MAD / £167
Day 4: Agafay Desert - desert camp & camel ride
I woke up with a bit of a cold today, so we took it easy in the morning and then went to the Kasbah district of Marrakech, a historic district which is quieter than central Marrakech. We had lunch at Cafe Clock, a trendy cafe that is known for their famous camel burger, and that also offers cooking classes and live music throughout the week. The food was really good, with a mix of traditional Moroccan dishes and more Western food.
After lunch, we left Marrakech behind and headed for the Agafay Desert. When I last visited Morocco, me and my friend did a desert trip to the Sahara which was incredible. With our daughter, we didn’t feel the lengthy drive to the Sahara desert was feasible, so I had read that there is another desert called Agafay just an hour outside of Marrakech. I must confess I was a bit apprehensive before going here as the reviews were mixed, but I was actually pleasantly surprised. It is not the Sahara for sure, but it’s still a beautiful place with dramatic rock formations, rolling hills, expansive open plains, and the majestic Atlas Mountains in the background. It’s definitely worth a visit if you want a unique experience and a quiet getaway from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech!
We stayed at Agafay Pearl Camp which was incredible - the tents were spacious and comfortable and the premises had a swimming pool, a small playground and some animals (goats, sheep, chickens and turkeys) which my daughter really enjoyed. There are a few different activities available in Agafay, the most common ones being quad biking, hot air balloon flights and camel rides. We figured a camel ride would be the best activity for our 2-year-old, so at sunset, we went for a camel ride through the desert, which it was a lovely experience that all three of us thoroughly enjoyed.
We came back in time for dinner, and as we were eating, there was a dinner show with traditional music and dancing. This was quite possibly my daughter’s highlight of the entire trip! The musicians were so sweet and let her join in on the dancing and even let her try on a tasselled fez and have a go at playing the drums. She danced and sang way past her bedtime and we had to literally drag her away from “her new friends”! After our daughter was eventually fast asleep, the staff set up a fire outside our tent and we finished the day stargazing by the fire.
Where to stay: Agafay Pearl Camp
Where to eat: Cafe Clock
Daily cost breakdown (for 2 adults & 1 child)
Accommodation: 1800 MAD
Daily car hire: 246 MAD
Lunch: 310 MAD
Camel ride: 600 MAD
Dinner: 400 MAD
Total: 3346 MAD / £266
Day 5: Taghazout - seafood & ocean swim
We woke up to the morning sun beautifully colouring the dunes and after some breakfast and a quick cuddle with some puppies (had to!), we hit the road.
Today our final destination was Taghazout by the Atlantic coast. The drive took just under 4 hours and we stopped halfway at a service station that had a playground so our daughter could have a break. The last 2 hours of the drive takes you through the Atlas Mountains, so this part of the drive was very pleasant.
We got to the coast around 4pm and arrived at our apartment, which was right by the beach, opening up to stunning sea views.
Taghazout is a small town with colourful houses, its main attraction being its beaches which are great for surfing. It reminded me of other surf towns I’ve been to in countries like Portugal, Spain and France and it’s very clear to see that most people here are here for the surf with every shop offering board hire and surf lessons. If you have older kids, take them for a surf lesson or rent some boogie boards and have a play in the waves! I was tempted to let our daughter have a go (she also said herself that she would like to try!) but I decided it will have to wait until she’s a little older and knows how to swim.
Instead, we headed down to the beach and had a splash around in the water, which was a lot warmer than I had anticipated for February. There were also camel rides available at the beach, so if you skipped the desert and came straight here, you could still do a camel ride!
We then went to World of Waves, a surf hotel and restaurant overlooking the sea, where we had some seafood before heading back to our apartment to watch the sunset from our balcony.
Where to stay: Over Sea Taghazout El Baraka
Where to eat: World of Waves
Daily cost breakdown (for 2 adults & 1 child)
Accommodation: 943 MAD
Daily car hire: 246 MAD
Lunch: 80 MAD
Overnight parking: 10 MAD
Dinner: 280 MAD
Total: 1559 MAD / £124
Day 6: Paradise Valley & Imi Quaddar
Today we had planned to visit Paradise Valley - an oasis nestled between rocky cliffs, with natural pools of crystal clear water. The valley is only about 45 mins drive away from Taghazout, a stunning drive taking you through lush green mountains with plenty of lookout points on the way.
At the car park next to the start of the trail there was a playground, so we spent some time here before continuing so our daughter could have play before sitting in the back carrier for the hike. The first part of the hike takes you down to a river lined with restaurants (some tables are actually in the water if you’re happy to get your feet wet!). Once you get to the actual gorge there are two different trails you can take - one that takes you up above the gorge to some pools further in, and another trail takes you down into the gorge.
When I went 10 years ago, I’m pretty sure we went up to the pools further away, so this time we decided to hike into the gorge. I will not lie - this was a little bit challenging at times carrying my daughter on the back, mostly because some rocks were polished by the water and therefore very slippery, but it was worth it in the end as we got to a pool of crystal clear water where you could jump in for a swim. There were a few people there when we got there, but once they left we had the gorge all to ourselves! Me and my husband both went in for a swim (we bribed our daughter with some yoghurt so she was happy) - it was cold but after a hike in the scorching sun a bit of freshening up was much needed!
We hiked back to the river and had some lunch at one of the restaurants by the water. This bit was quite shallow and the water was therefore warmer, so there were lots of kids playing in the water and our daughter could have a splash around too to cool down.
We then went back to the playground so our daughter could have a final play before continuing up into the mountains, following a hair-pin road for about 15 mins which takes you to a viewpoint of the mountains. This was very impressive, and the road was completely empty, bar a few brave cyclists doing the Atlas Mountain Race. Well worth going here if you have a car!
We headed back to Taghazout and explored the town for a bit, before heading to the nearby village Imi Quaddar for sunset. Imi Quaddar is a small fishing village about a 10 minute drive from Taghazout, so if you’re looking for fresh seafood at a decent price, this is the place! We sat down at restaurant Pieds dans l'eau right on the beach, and soon the waiter came up to us with a tray of freshly caught fish and seafood, asking us to pick and choose what we wanted. The food was amazing, and once it got dark there was even some bioluminescence in the sea which was really cool.
Where to eat: Pieds dans l'Eau
Daily cost breakdown (for 2 adults & 1 child)
Accommodation: 943 MAD
Daily car hire: 246 MAD
Lunch: 210 MAD
Parking at Paradise Valley: 15 MAD
Overnight parking: 10 MAD
Dinner: 600 MAD
Total: 1778 MAD / £141
Day 7: Tamraght & back to Marrakech
For our last day in Morocco, we decided to explore a bit more of the coast before heading back to Marrakech. We headed to the nearby village of Tamraght, a peaceful and scenic spot just north of Agadir known for its laid-back vibe, golden sands, and excellent surf conditions. There is also the rock formation called Devil’s Rock that you can climb to get great views of the coast to both sides (my daughter loved watching all the surfers in the water from up high!).
We then went back down to the beach and decided to do a horse ride on the beach, something we had seen a lot of people doing and our daughter has been talking about riding a horse ever since watching Frozen II. The ride was 350 MAD for all of us for about 30 minutes, and it was really fun, both for us and our daughter.
We had lunch at Restaurant Chez Aicha overlooking the beach, and the people here were so lovely to our daughter - they kept giving her strawberries, bananas and pots of yoghurt, she felt like a queen! We then went down to the water for a quick splash in the waves before heading back to the car to start the 3.5 hour drive back to Marrakech.
We stopped by a service station half way to fill up and let our daughter stretch her legs and have a play, and decided to get the car cleaned while we were here (this is required when you hire a car in Morocco - they might not always say, so make sure you check the fine print and terms and conditions if you're hiring a car!).
We arrived back in Marrakech in the evening and checked into Riad Samsli, a beautifully decorated Riad with a hammam. We then headed straight for dinner as it was already quite late, and found a lovely spot tucked away in a side alleyway called Cafe Chez ZaZa. This was the perfect way to round off the night, and our Morocco holiday!
Where to stay: Riad Samsli
Where to eat: Restaurant Chez Aicha, Cafe Chez ZaZa
Daily cost breakdown (for 2 adults & 1 child)
Accommodation: 905 MAD
Daily car hire: 246 MAD
Lunch: 190 MAD
Horse ride: 350 MAD
Overnight parking: 70 MAD
Dinner: 320 MAD
Total: 2081 MAD / £165
To summarise, we found Morocco to be great destination for a family holiday. It is beautiful and diverse, but what really made it stand out for us was the people. We were so humbled by the amount of kindness and generosity we, and especially our daughter, were met with everywhere we went. If you have any reservations about going to Morocco with your children, this is your sign to book that trip!
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